Graham Finally Arrives...

5th-13th July

Wow!  What a week it has been.  I arrived, started a new jobk found a flat and got to know the city a bit.  Everything seemed to move in a blurry whirlwind - except actually getting here, of course.

Don't get me started on my trip here.  I have never experienced a trip like it.  38 hours from the UK to Costa Rica.  What an absolute nightmare!  The story, if you haven't heard it already, goes like this...

Sarah and I arrived at London Heathrow Airport in good time because we wanted to have a last coffee together before she headed back to Oxford and I headed to Costa Rica.  I was a little worried because the day before I had tried to check in online, but had been unsuccessful.  After several phone calls to the airline and to Opodo, the agent, neither of them could work out why I couldn't check in, so they told me just to check in at the airport.  They reassured me that everything would be fine.

So, we arrived at the airport and I went to check in.  It took the guy checking me in about 20 seconds to work out the problem - as my plane was stopping for 3 hours in the United States (New York), I needed to have an ESTA (a transit visa).  I didn't have one.  He said I couldn't check in.  So, we asked him what we should do and he said that I could get an ESTA online.  We thanked him and dived for our phones.  We frantically found a website that would sell us one - knowing we had about three hours before the check in desk closed, and I applied.  I had to pay an extra £100 for the privelidge of doing so.  I then received a message saying the application would take 12 hours to process.  

On the website, there was a link to the company's WhatsApp.  So I sent them a message explaining the situation and begging them to please hurry as I didn't want to miss my flight.  To their credit, they rushed through the application and I received by ESTA just as the check in desk was closing.  The man told me - at that point - that if I had used the official website to order my ESTA it would have arrived within an hour.  I thanked him for waiting until that moment to tell me!

Anyway, we were able to check in.  I grabbed my boarding passes, was reassured by the check in guy that I would make the plane, and then we joined the line for passport control.  The problem was that earlier that morning there had been a bomb scare in our terminal and they'd evacuated the building.  This meant that the queue for check in was about a mile long (no exaggeration).  I looked at my watch.  It was already time for the plane to take off.

I shuffled forward and kept looking at my watch.  I asked the security guards if I could be bumped up the line.  There was an apology, but a very firm no.  Then things started to go wrong...

The airline rang and said I had a few more minutes to get to the plane, or they would be taking off without me.  I shuffled forwards...I looked at my watch...I sweated a bit.  The phone rang again.  I had been diesmbarked.  My bags had been taken off and I would be allocated a seat on a different flight.  

The lady on the phone from the airline asked me to wait while she checked for other flights.  She then rang back about ten minutes later and said that she couldn't do the re-booking and that I had to ring the airline in New York.  I did, and it cost a fortune.  I spent a long time on hold.  Eventually someone answered and, after I explained, they said I needed to speak to Opodo.  I rang them.  They said it was up to the airline.  Telephone tennis ensued.  Eventually I got through to a manager at the airline.  They explained that I had bought a non-refundable ticket and that I wasn't entitled to any compensation.  They put the phone down.  That was the end of that part of the story.

That left Sarah and I in Heathrow Airport wondering what to do.  The only thing for it was to book another plane ticket for me.  We found one going via Mexico City in the evening from London Heathrow.  So, I got my bag back from Jet Blue Airlines and we went for some food.  I had a long time to wait before the flight, and so things grew strangely calm again, eventhough I was a little angry and frustrated after what had happened.

Eventually, Sarah and I parted and I went to Mexico City.  I had a six-hour layover in the airport!  This passed surprisingly quickly as I grabbed some more food, had a drink, browsed round the shops and had a nap.  

Finally, I was on my way to Costa Rica.  The plane took off from Mexico City and made it all the way to San Jose... then it circled, and circled, and circled.  There was an announcement that the weather conditions made it hard to land in San Jose and that we were being rerouted.  We landed in Nicaragua and were there for about 45 minutes.  It was beautiful as the airport is just next to a big lake, but I wasn't really in a fit state to appreciate the beauty of it.

Finally, we took off again and I landed in Costa Rica.  That was a journey of 38 hours door to door.  Not one I really want to repeat.  Please don't let this stop you coming over to Costa Rica.  What happened to me is very unlikely to happen to you.  Just remember your transit visa if you are going to the States.

 

The First Five Weeks Flying Solo

10th August 2024

I was surprised how quickly things moved once my feet hit the ground (after 38 hours in the air - see my previous post).  

I arrived on a Friday, settled in to accommodation provided by the school on Saturday and Sunday, and then started work on the Monday.  That was a rapid turn around, and, to be honest, when I started teaching I still felt I was getting over my flight.  Thankfully, the students were lovely and they helped me to quickly find my feet.

The accommodation was in a homestay with a lovely Tico lady called Ana, and her son - and their dog who was a little over-friendly.  There was very limited internet, and all my classes (except one) were online, and so I went to the school each day to teach.  This was quite good as it got me out of the house, and helped me to meet the manager and the Academic Director at the school, who are lovely.

It wasn't long before I had arranged to be shown some flats that Sarah and I could rent.  I was shown one that has a great view, over some gorgeous mountain, from the lounge window.  I fell in love with this place as soon as I saw it - especially as it is in a good location, and I decided to take it.

Two weeks after arriving, I was in our own flat.  The fun then started of walking to the shops each day, between lessons, to buy bedding, cutlery, and all the necessaries to build a life here.  Thankfully, Uber taxis are cheap and efficient here, and so I was able to ferry stuff back from the shops easily.

It wasn't long before I was starting to feel at home.  I was getting used to the job, the flat was in a liveable state, I'd discovered the local supermarkets (there are three nearby), and... then I realised there was something missing.  Well, not something but someone.  It was at this point that I started to really miss Sarah.

To distract myself at the weekend, I found the time to join a local church, visit museums, go on a walking tour and start to work a bit more on my Spanish.

There are three main museums in San Jose.  The Gold Museum (which tells the story of the history of Costa Rica really clearly - including explaining how important Gold was to its development), The Jade Museum (which was good, but very repetitive), and The National Museum (which has a great building and a pretty butterfly house).

I also managed to get out of the city for a long weekend.  I took a three hour bus ride to an area called Manuel Antonio.  This is a national park that has lots of monkeys (Capuchin, Howler), birds (including Tucans), and other impressive flora and fauna - including some great beaches.  This was a lovely trip, apart from the fact that I had a covid-like cold and felt a bit rough.  I want to go back again with Sarah when I'm feeling a bit better.

One of the big challenges was that my sciatica has been playing up.  I was being shown around the factory where one of my students works, and I had to stop the tour because I simply couldn't walk any further - my leg was too sore.  I'm going to do some research and find a friendly chairopractor here, to see if they can help.

The highlight, of course, was when I went, with a good friend I made here, to the airport and collected Sarah.  She's now here and I feel like the adventure can finally, after a 38-hour journey here and five, at times, quite lonely weeks, begin in earnest.  

Settling In

16th September 2024

Things move fast for us here, it seems.  Sarah has found a job, we have joined a bilingual church, we've had a holiday in a beautiful area on the Caribbean coast, and we've made a start in getting a 'Chat Cafe' started.  This was all very exciting, so let me explain a little more.

When Sarah arrived, we thought it would be great for her to get some Spanish language lessons for a while as she was looking for work.  She enrolled at a local language school, where the course was two-weeks long.  She enjoyed her time and, as well as learning the lingo, she also had a dance class (!) and a couple of cooking classes.  Another feature of this course was that the school had lots of students who were learning English with them, and so they paired up an English speaking student with a Spanish speaking student so that they could do a language exchange (or a 'tandem' as they called them).  Sarah still meets with one of the people she was in a 'tandem' with.

While she was studying, she was also job hunting.  She had a couple of interviews and has landed a job at an International School (Europe School).  She will be taking over the Year 6 class from a teacher who leaves in October, so, at the moment, Sarah is acting as the school librarian.  It is a great school, with nice grounds and friendly staff and students.  The one drawback is the commute, which is about an hour each way.  We're thinking that if we stay a second year, we might move nearer to the school (especially as nearly all my teaching is on-line).

Another interesting thing about the school is it has a no-screens policy for the primary students.  That means no phones in class for them, no videos can be shown in the class by the teacher, and no interactive whiteboards.  There is also a limit on the amount of photocopying that can be done, and all the documents that teachers might want to print and copy need to be approved by the head first.

Graham's work as been relatively tame in comparision.  No major dramas, but I am continuing to enjoy the classes.  One of my students is the Spanish cultural attache at the Spanish Embassy in San Jose.  He's a lovely guy, but I made a bit of a faux pas.  On the 15th September, Costa Rica celebrates getting its independence from Spain.  asked my Spanish student how he was going to celebrate.  Oops!  Thankfully, he has a good sense of humour and a gentle temprament.

We had the opportunity to have a lovely holiday for a few days.  We took a four-hour bus ride from San Jose to a small, usually quiet area called Cahuita.  The bus was comfortable and the only problem with the travelling was when the bus on the way home broke down at the bus station and we had to wait for a replacement to come along.

Cahuita has both a couple of beautiful beaches, and a national park - where there are lots of interesting animals and birds to see.

The first night wasn't quite as we expected it to be.  We had chosen Cahuita because it is a quiet, peaceful village where not much happens and you can enjoy the gentle sounds of nature... or so we thought.  On the first night we were there the village was playing host to an Afro-caribean music festival.  This meant that there was loud music until about 3am.  Our beds were vibrating with the soundwaves.  Not quite what we had come for.  Still, the next couple of nights were really peaceful.

It was a holiday of unexpected things.  For example, when we checked into the room at the hostel, we noticed there was a mosquito net hanging above the bed.  Being highly experienced travellers, we looked at the net and decided we didn't need it.  So, we slept without it.  The first morning, when we woke up, Sarah took a photo of my back.  She'd never seen quite so many mosquito bites in one place!  We've now learned that if there is a mosquito net, there is probably a need for it!

Another unexpected thing was when we were walking in the rainforest.  It was a cloudy day and, as we were standing under some trees, I said to Sarah - look, it's raining.  She looked confused, and said it wasn't raining where she was standing.  Then we looked up and spotted the howler monkey who was... well, I'll leave the end of that to your imagination. 

A similar incident happened as we were walking back to the accommodation and spotted a beautiful blue and black poison-dart frog on the path.  We were busy admiring that when we realised it had started raining again.  Being wise from the previous experience, we looked up and spotted an iguana who also who had felt the need at that moment to... well, you know.

A final surprise was the first time we saw a sloth.  We were sitting under a shelter in the park (no, not sheltering from the howler monkey), and a couple of Americans came running up, telling us to look in the tree above where we were sitting.  We did and saw a sloth moving quite fast (they can if they want, apparently).  This guy was escaping from and eagle that was trying to eat it for lunch.  It clambered up into the tree and sat in the most densley packed branches it could find - out of the eagle's grasp.  We were fortunate enough to see two more sloths in the park.  These were being more slothful and weren't moving at all.

Apart from all these adventures, we are doing well.  Graham's sciatica is getting better, thanks to numerous visits to the chiropractor here.  He's also had a stomach bug for a while and seems to be recovering well from that.

Our next project is to start and English club, in association with a few of the churches in the local area, for people who want to practice some conversational English.  We'll probably meet for about 90 minutes or so on a Saturday morning over a coffee with whoever wants to come.  We've done this in a few other places and it has proved to be quite popular, so we'll give it a go.  More about this in the next blog.

 

 

 

 

 

Still Settling In

13th October 2024

So, we are now settled and life has gone from everything being new and novel, to life being a bit more routine (although certainly not boring). That said, we still feel like newbies and are still enjoying exploring in our free time. 

Sarah has done just over a month at the European school in her role as librarian, but the real work starts in a week’s time when she starts as the Year 6 teacher. She’s had lots of time to prepare for this role but as it’s a long time since she has been a primary school teacher is quite apprehensive about that. One good thing about working in a school is the holidays, and at the moment she has 2 weeks holiday. We haven’t gone away as Graham is working (He has a short term break the week after Sarah starts!) but we have made the most of the time together doing day trips and fun things. 

We went to the old capital city, Cartago, to look at the main sights there - the ruins of the old church and the new cathedral home of La Negrita. This is a small statue of a black Madonna which was found by an indigenous girl collecting firewood in the 1600s. She took it home but it disappeared. The next day she found it again in the same place and again took it home. Once more it miraculously returned to the rock near the spring where she had found it. She took it to the Bishop who took it to the church that was being rebuilt after a series of  earthquakes. Of course it vanished from there as well . Eventually it was decided to build a new church on the rock near the spring and that this church would be open to all classes of people. This is the cathedral we visited and were able to see the black Madonna and the spring - all very impressive. 

Another tourist trip we have done recently was to the University of Costa Rica. This is very close to our house and is actually a place we have walked around on our own quite often as we had heard that there were sloths there. However we had never been able to spot the sloths. Our guide was passionate about biodiversity and showed us loads of insects and birds before taking us to exactly the same spots we’d looked at before and pointing out 3 separate sloths! You need to know where to look and what you are looking for as a sloth just looks like a branch until suddenly you see it and then it is fantastic to watch it and see all the people walking around you oblivious to its presence. 

We’ve been exploring bus routes near us to see where they go and although we have found ourselves not where we expected a few times, we have also found a very nice park which is not far away but feels like you are in the middle of the rainforest. Also we have been up into the mountains to the South of San Jose to see the views and explore some villages. 

The main thing we have managed to get off the ground now is the English conversation group that we wanted to start. We’ve only had one meeting so far and it was small, just 4 attendees - but we really enjoyed meeting them and feel that they all enjoyed it and will return next week with friends. So, are feeling very hopeful that this will grow and we will be able to meet Ticos (Costa Ricans) regularly and make good friends. 

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